Monday 30 December 2013

Adopt a Backpacker


A couple of weeks ago I wrote a blog about how much I've enjoyed meeting up with old friends and how lucky I've been to have been offered a place to stay for a lot of my trip so far. For me, getting to stay with locals – especially ones I'm already friends with – makes travelling that much better.

Sometimes though, it goes even further than that. Sometimes you get to stay in a situation where, not only do you stay with your friend and have them show you around, sometimes the whole family adopts you.

I've been in a situation like this for the last few weeks in Mexico City. Since catching up with my room mate from Melbourne I've been welcomed by her family and friends as one of their own. Not only have I had a place to stay, I've had the best tour guides ever, been given some great information and taken to the best food places.

Waiting for our "Tacos Al Pastor" 

Its not the first time I've been fortunate enough to be adopted while on the road. My first backpacker adoption came courtesy of my sisters new in-laws – the House Family - in England. While they are in fact also real relations, at the time they adopted me they barely knew me, and yet they helped to create my first “home away from home” when I first started travelling.

Since then I've been fortunate enough to have home cooked meals and a place to stay with families in countries all over the world, and its something that I truly appreciate every time. You sometimes wonder what the adopting family gets out of the situation. Are they just being polite? Or do they really want to share their culture and thoughts with someone from another country?

Christmas in Mexico has to include a piñata

Christmas is a time of year that many backpackers miss their families. Often travellers will organise “orphan Christmas” with fellow foreigners and celebrate as they would back home. I was fortunate enough to have the House family – my sister included – during the Christmases I spent in the UK, however my first Christmas in Canada saw me sitting in a cafe by myself, and I'll admit to feeling quite alone. While Christmas, for me, is not a religious thing, it is a family thing and the following year I was lucky enough to be adopted by my Ottawa room mate's family for Christmas. And while he forgot to mention it to his family beforehand (awkward!), they still welcomed me into their home.

This year I was able to be part of a Mexican Christmas, witnessing the traditions, eating all of the amazing food and even getting a couple of gifts. It was great to be a part of a family environment, even if it wasn't my own family, because to me that is what Christmas is all about.

My Mexican Family for Christmas

Being adopted while on the road doesn't just have to be at the Holidays though – it is appreciated at any time. While it has always been an amazing unexpected surprise for me, I'm hoping to encourage some people in Brazil to get into the spirit in June and July. Yes, I know this is a cheap plug, but there will be a huge amount of travellers hittingBrazil in June, and many would love to see not only the World Cup, but plenty of the Brazilian culture and lifestyle.

So come on Brazil, open up your doors and adopt a backpacker!

I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays, however and whatever they celebrated and I wish everyone a happy new year! 

Friday 20 December 2013

Extra Baggage

They call it the Heathrow injection. The extra few kilograms that Australians tend to come back with around their mid sections after a working holiday in the UK and Europe.

Whether its the stodgy food, the copious amounts of ale or the cold weather comfort eating, its rare that an Antipodean returns home from his or her time abroad without a little more to love.

Fish & Chips in England

I'm far from immune. After over two years in the UK & Europe I returned home with around 15kgs (33lbs) extra baggage – and I'm not talking about souvenirs. Just to prove that Heathrow is not the culprit, I returned with a similar result after two years in North America.

One of my favourite things in Canada, Poutine

This has become an inevitable part of travel for me, and one that I'm willing to accept. Why? Because I love food. For me, trying all of the local food in each country is a huge part of the reason I travel. Sure I lovemeeting people, and obviously have an addiction to live sport, but on a day to day basis, its almost always the food that is most memorable.

The last two weeks in Mexico have been foodie heaven. There's been tacos, enchiladas, tostadas, chalupas, mole, quesadillas and many other types of food that I cant remember the names of. Everything seems to come with salsa, cheese, cream and chili – even at breakfast - and its becoming evident that my travel gut is well and truly back.

Tostadas

It didn't just start in Mexico though. After leaving Australia in pretty good shape, things were actually looking pretty good for the first month or so, travelling through Burma and India, where I ate a mostly vegetarian diet to avoid falling victim to any sketchy meat handling practices.

Vegetarian tali

And then I got to the UK. While I think British food is sometimes unfairly maligned for being boring and drab, there is really no doubting that the traditional fish and chips, pie and chips and increasingly these days, kebab and chips are anything but healthy. Throw in the aforementioned copious amounts of ale and the need for a “full fry up” to ease the inevitable hangover, and the beginnings of travel gut 3.0 were well established.

One of many fine ales consumed in England

The next leg of my trip saw me return to the US and Canada where I caught up with a lot of good friends, but also got reacquainted with some of the food I'd been missing. Poutine, chicken wings and visits to my favourite burger places were almost daily occurrences. By the time I'd finished in the US, I could start to feel my travelling diet catching up with me. I certainly wasn't the same person who completed the Tough Mudder event in February.

A Krusty Burger

All of that, though, was just a warm up. It's been Mexico that has given me some of the most delicious food I've ever had, but also the biggest contributor to the gut. It appears to be virtually impossible to eat out in this country in a healthy way. To be honest though, I'm loving it.

Enchiladas with mole (chocolate & chili)

Arriving in Mexico City after a long day of delayed and cancelled flights, to be greeted with enchiladas swimming in a delicious salsa verde, its hard to be too conscious about your body shape. You just have to enjoy.

Some of the best street food in the world

And if nothing else, when I arrive home and people ask if I bought back any souvenirs, I'll know I brought with me the best reminder of just how good a time I had.

As I move ever closer to Brazil for the World Cup starting in June, I'm looking forward to trying all the food that Central and South America can throw at me. And hey, its almost Christmas...

Who else loves eating as much as me when they travel? What are your favourite travel foods and what are you most looking forward to trying on your next trip? 

Tuesday 10 December 2013

Preparing to Invade Brazil

The moment much of the world had been waiting for came and went last week, with the FIFA World Cup 2014 Final Draw taking place on Friday.

World Cup Draw

Well, that went well.

Spain, Chile and the Netherlands. You could hardly have feared a worse group for the Socceroos to face on the worlds biggest stage. Sure, Australia were always going to be a bit of a long shot to win the prize – or even make it out of the group stage – however the draw they've been given means that even getting a single point out of the tournament may be beyond their grasp.

Not only are Australia facing the defending champions in Spain, they're also facing the runner up from 2010. Add to that one of South America's local powers, and Ange Postecoglou and his men are really up against it.

While one could dwell on the negatives of the draw and wallow in our own self pity, I'm choosing to look forward. This will likely be the one and only FIFA World Cup I ever attend, unless Australia ever wins the rights to host, so therefore I'm going to make the most of it. Sure, Australia will likely end up putting in results similar to their effort against Germany in 2010, but at least there's no real way they can underachieve. Anything north of slaughter will be positive. And as I've just submitted my request for tickets for the group games, I'll (hopefully) be able to see some of the best players and teams in the world.

World Cup 2010: Germany 4 - Australia 0

The other positive, is that I get to go and discover some new cities, with Australia's matches being outside of the major centres of Rio and Sao Paulo. I know nothing about the three cities Australia is due to play in – Cuiaba, Porto Alegre and Curitaba – but I'm going to make it a point over the next few months to learn what I can about these cities where Australia will go into battle, and hopefully help out any fellow Aussies travelling to support our boys.

All of the info below is just what I've been able to find online so if you have any more details on any of these cities, please feel free to let me know in the comments and I'll post an updated blog closer to the tournament. Accommodation is going to be a major stumbling block for many of us, so if anyone has any tips on this, please let us all know!

Match 4: Australia V Chile – June 13 @ 18:00
Cuiaba, Mato Grosso

Australia will kick off their campaign against one of South America's big hopes, Chile, who will likely bring with them thousands of dedicated fans, so it is going to be important for as many Australians as possible to be there to support our boys.

Cuiaba, a city of around a million, is the capital of Mato Grosso state, and is located ideally between the southern tip of the Amazon and the Pantanal which is known for being a great place to see some local wildlife.

To get there by bus from Rio is around 32 hours, so a flight would be preferable, however its looking like flights will be difficult to come by and very expensive – so perhaps settle in for a couple of long bus rides.

FIFA TV Documentary on Cuiaba

Match 20: Australia V The Netherlands – June 18 @ 13:00
Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul

This city of 1.5 Million and the capital of the southern state of Rio Grande do Sul sees the Socceroos go up against 2010 runners up Holland. The Dutch are perenial contenders and will be tough to get any points out of, however Australia has a couple of players who ply their trade in the Dutch system, and will be looking forward to having a crack at players they regularly compete with and against.

The city is another long haul, 24 hours from Rio, however it is only 12 hours on a bus from Uruguay's capital of Montivideo, so it may be worth crossing into the country of the Socceroos' traditional South American nemesis for a few days if you're lucky enough to get tickets to this game.

FIFATV Doco on Porto Alegre

Match 35; Australia V Spain – June 23 @ 13:00
Curitiba, Parana

Spain has taken all before them for the last several years and will once again go into this tournament as one of the hot favourites. The city of Curitiba will provide an extra dimension to this one, being over 3000 feet above sea level – something neither side will be at all used to. This host city, of a little under two million residents – is also the closest to Rio, with just a 13 hour bus ride.

It may be after this match that many Australians start their exodus from Brazil, so it is worth noting that Buenos Aires (Argentina) is 34 hours away on a bus, while Santiago, with its daily QANTAS flights to Sydney is 54 hours away.

FIFATV Story on Curitiba


While the chances of us making it further in the tournament do look bleak, remember how happy we are just to be there. Sure, we want to put in a good showing, but as long our boys gives us some effort and something to cheer for (and we all find somewhere to sleep) this could be the trip of a lifetime.

The Josh Kennedy goal that had us all celebrating

There are plenty of tour companies, such as the Green & Gold Army and the Fanatics who do a great job and are running packages for Australians to go to all of our group games, however I'm hoping to find some more info for people like myself who hope to do it independently and on a budget. For those Aussies still looking to register for tickets, you've got plenty of time, and should log onto Football Australia or go to the official home of FIFA.

Once again, please feel free to contribute any information you have about Australia's three host cities, or any other details you think the travelling fans might appreciate. Or just let me know if you're going too and we can help each other out. I'll submit an updated info blog closer to the date. 

See you in Brazil! 

Wednesday 4 December 2013

My Addiction

My name is Steve Cram, and I'm a live sports addict.

Sure, this is probably not news to anyone who actually reads my blog ever – I am taking a year off to slowly make my way towards the FIFA World Cup in Brazil in June – but it is fair to say its bigger than any one sport.

With friends at the Socceroos second last qualifier Vs Jordan

My addiction probably started when I was 13 years old and my dad took me to see the Melbourne Tigers (Australian basketball, NBL) back when basketball was actually popular in Australia. The addiction soon took hold and we went on to become season ticket holders for the next 12 years. This, combined with dozens of Australian Football League games as well as NRL, Super Rugby, A-League, cricket and Tennis matches I've attended over the years, meant that there was scarcely ever a week that went by without me going to see some live sport.

With 90,000 other people watching Liverpool 

Recently though, I've combined live sport with my other major addiction, travel and things have started to get out of hand. In the last few years I've been lucky enough to attend sporting events in countries all over the world. I attended a Premier League Football game in London as well as an international friendly in Edinburgh. I've seen cricket in India, (ice) hockey in the Czech Republic and basketball in Lithuania, as well as being fortunate enough to work at the 2010 Winter Olympics in Vancouver.

The Olympics rings at Whistler Village, 2010

Its in the US and Canada though that I've attended the most live sporting events. Living in Canada one soon learns that, much like Aussie Rules Football in Australia, if you're not into hockey, you're considered something of an outcast. Luckily its a great sport and I became a big fan almost straight away. I also recently attended my first NFL game, getting to see the New York Giants . Sitting in that crowd of 80,000 people you could see that, while the world game is at the top of the pile in most countries, in the USA, their own version of football is king.

My first NFL game, meaning I've been to all four major league sports in North America

Where my addiction is most obvious though, is still with basketball. Since attending my first NBA game in New York City at Madison Square Garden in 2009, I've been to 21 more games. I don't even want to start to think about how much money I've spent on tickets as well as overpriced food and beer. But its been worth it.

Of the 22 NBA games I've been to, eight have been at the ACC to watch the Raptors

The most recent game I attended saw the two time defending champion Miami Heat hosting the Charlotte Bobcats. I was a bit late getting to the stadium and the cheapest walk up ticket available was for $108. Its time like this I really have to tell myself I'm here for a good time not a long time. The game turned out to be an absolute classic with the crowd among the loudest I've ever heard. Its just that kind of atmosphere that keeps me going from city to city watching NBA games – I've now been to games in 15 of the league's 29 stadiums and seen 23 of the 30 teams play. I sure don't want to pay $108 each time to go to a game, but I've never regretted it when I have.

Miami Heat crowd goes nuts at Chris Bosh hits his third straight three

A week or so ago I was lucky enough to meet former Australian men's basketball head coach Brett Brown in a cafe in Orlando. Brown has this season taken over the head coaching role at the Philadelphia 76ers and was in town for his team's game against the Magic. Having an Australian connection has certainly helped keep my love of the NBA going, and earlier on this trip I was able to see Brown coach against the San Antonio Spurs, featuring two Aussie players - Patty Mills and Aron Baynes.

Supporting the Aussies in the NBA

While basketball is my first love, my attention now turns back to the world game, with the final draw for the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil coming up this weekend. The draw will decide which three teams Australia has to face in the group stage and will soon lead to deciding when and where these games will be played. My aim is to get to all three of the Socceroos group matches, so this weekend is a very important one for deciding where I will be in June.

I'm hoping to see Australia grouped with Switzerland, Algeria and Bosnia - a group that I think will make it repetitively easy to get tickets - but I'm just happy for the next stage of the event to be coming up.

Who else is sweating on the World Cup Draw? Who do you want to see Australia (or your country) be drawn against? 


Thursday 21 November 2013

Surfing Champion?

When I first visited the USA four years ago, I noticed a trend. When meeting any new American woman, within five minutes I would invariably be asked, “Do you surf?”

Growing up in small country towns up to 500 kilometres (~300 Miles) away from the nearest coastline, surfing was not something I often had the chance to do, and by the time I did live somewhere coastal, the closest beach was St Kilda, which has about as many waves as your average coffee cup.

The problem I had was that the look of disappointment on the faces of these American women was hard to take. I was shattering their image of what an Australian man really was. I guess not being six feet tall and having long blonde hair played a part, but the no surfing thing certainly helped.

I've realised recently though, that I'm actually somewhat of a surfing champion. While throwing on a wetsuit and running out to the waves with a board may never happen regularly for me, I've found something else I love to surf: couches.

Poutine; one of the things from Canada I missed the most

Anyone paying attention will note that I haven’t added to this blog in well over a month. What have I been doing in that time? I've been travelling through Canada and the USA meeting up with old friends, going to my favourite bars and eating all of my favourite food all over again. In short, nothing remotely new. Unlike while in India and Burma, I haven't been discovering new cultures, cuisines, cities and people. I've gone back to a bunch of places that I'd already discovered.

While this may not seem like the greatest use of my time (and limited money) while out of the country for a year, it has reminded me of the number one reason I love to travel – meeting and becoming genuine friends with people in other countries.

In the two months since I left India (including my time in the UK, Spain and Sweden) I've been fortunate enough to be welcomes into the homes of many different people. These people vary greatly in their backgrounds as well as my level of familiarity with them before coming into their homes.

My second time at the Daily Show

I've been hosted by not only my sister and some great friends who've hosted me numerous times before, but also people whom I've not seen in up to seven years, and others that were probably best described as “friends of friends” that welcomed me as though we'd been close forever.

I have also used the official Couch Surfing website where I've stayed with people who were literally strangers before staying with them, but for the most part I've stayed with people I've met through my network of travelling friends. To put it into perspective, in the 64 days I've spent in Europe and North America since leaving India, I've spent just 10 nights in paid accommodation, and only two nights since arriving in North America six weeks ago.

A group of my friends in Montreal, Canada

To me that says a lot about the welcoming and kind nature of the people I've met in my last eight years of travelling, and one of the reasons its going to be so difficult to let go of this lifestyle I the future.

While I may not be discovering any new cities just now, it has been far from boring. Reconnecting with people I haven't seen in years is as much of a reward as seeing a great monument for the first time. Just as those said monuments have stood the test of time, so too do many of these friendships.


And hey, some things do change. When an American girl asks me if I surf these days, I answer with a firm “Yes, of course”.

Friday 11 October 2013

What if Paul Kelly is right?


Now I'm in a restaurant in Stockholm
And the waiter here wants me to know his name
And I can order sandwiches in seven different languages
But every fucking city is just the same - Paul Kelly, "Every Fucking City"

Paul Kelly's iconic song about backpacking through Europe is a favourite with many Australian travellers as it has been for me during my last eight years of wandering the globe. But it re entered my mind when I was actually sitting in a restaurant last week in Sweden's capital and making a complete mess of ordering a sandwich in Swedish.

2012 Live version (with some modern twists)

It got me thinking about whether Paul Kelly was actually right. Are all cities just the same? For 10 days I'd been travelling through several cities in Sweden and for the most part they were much the same. Nice old buildings, some so-so castles beautiful little old towns and some really pretty scenery. The more I thought about it, the more it was quite similar to many other cities I'd visited in other European countries.

The people I met were similar too. In my time in Sweden, aside from one Swede (whom I met in Scotland years ago) I spent my time with another Australian, some Mexicans and a couple who were Finish and Russian and many of their friends who were Hungarian. Did I really need to be in Sweden for this? Couldn't I just plant myself in any European city and act as a tourist and wait for all of the same experiences? Or is it possible that I'm just becoming an old Jaded traveller?

Town square in Malmo

In Malmo, at the south of Sweden, I met another traveller who introduced me to the concept of there being an “order” to travel. As a Westerner, you start in Europe or North America – safe, easy countries – and then eventually move into the more developing countries in Asia and South America, before one day you find yourself asking for a sandwich in Baghdad. It's possible that after my recent travels in India and Burma, that any Western country just doesn't feel different enough any more.

I think in all honesty travel through many countries has become a bit the same. People want the same facilities and services in their hotel/hostel. They'll tend to do the same kinds of things when they get to each city – whether that be hop-on hop-off busses, tour museums or just get drunk. And they'll tend to meet the same kinds of people who are all doing the same kinds of things as them.

Town Square in Stockholm


Does that mean that there's no point travellings to many of these places? Hell no. While the differences may be more subtle these days, they're still there. If you're willing to try different food, attempt to meet some locals and in general get out of your comfort zone, you'll find plenty of new things in each new city you visit. The unique and different experiences are still there to find, you might just need to leave Starbucks to find them.  

Friday 27 September 2013

Peace and Quiet in the UK (Goodbye India)

Sometimes the best part of travel is the contrast between two different places. In the last week I've been relaxing in the English countryside, after spending a month travelling through India. The contract could scarcely be bigger.

This past week has seen me living with my sister and brother in law on their narrow boat, living the life of a “boatie”, travelling up and down the Kennett and Avon Canal and checking out the local beers and in bunch of local country pubs. Life has been pretty relaxed to say the least.

My home for the last week in England, the "Pirate Princess"

It has been that relaxed, in fact, that anyone paying attention will notice it has been two weeks since my last post. It seems I've fallen into “boatie” time, where things just get done, when they get done. It's been great.

India is anything but relaxing. Everything you do involves a lot of people wanting you to use their services, buy their products or just be part of their life. Try walking down a street trying to find somewhere to eat and you'll have at least one person from each restaurant almost dragging you into their business, stopping just short of kidnapping at times.

Walking through the busy streets at night in Varanasi is sure to get you many new "friends"

Normally it doesn't come to that and is just words. But oh so many words. “Hello my friend, where are you from?”. You'll hear this 20, 30 or 100 times a day. Wow...I've got a lot of friends!

What I found in my five weeks in the country was that Indians will try any form of connection to make you stop and talk to them. From talking about Ricky Ponting (or cricket in general) to the unfortunate rash of violence against Indian students in Melbourne several years ago, there was no line of conversation which didn't eventually turn into an invitation to a shop selling pashminas that their good friend ran and could give me a good deal.

“I don't want a pashmina”

“But it's very cheap”

“I don't care if its free, I don’t want one”

“Just come and have a look”

“Bye now...”

In some cities, there was a theme. In Jaipur, a beautiful city with at least three historic forts, a palace in the middle of a lake and numerous other great attractions the line of choice went as such, “Why don't tourists like to talk to Indians?” The first time I heard the line I explained that as it always turns into business, it can be tiresome talking to every single person who wants to sell you their goods. To his credit he made a case for treating every person you meet and to try not to stereotype people so much. He had a point. After making this point he invited me to join him for some chai at his friend's silver shop, who could also give me a great deal because we were now “good friends”.

Well played sir. Goodbye.

I then proceeded to hear this line three more times in the next hour and countless more times in my three days in town.

Tuk Tuk drivers were among the most persistent of the touts 

At some point I found myself doing anything I could to not engage the touts in conversation. From simply ignoring them, to pretending I don't speak any of the many languages they engage you with, to inventing a new country (Colac) or even answering every possible question with “Hodor!”

If Burmese are thefriendliest people on the planet, Indians are certainly the most persistent. It does, at times, make you feel bad to be shrugging off all of these locals – most of whom are just trying to make an honest buck – but when its all day every day and you only want to talk around and enjoy the city, it can get trying.

While it sounds like I didn't enjoy my time in India, nothing could be further from the truth. I loved the contrasts, the food, the historic sights and the many people I was able to meet who weren't trying to sell me things (and even some of those that were). I met many other travellers who were in India for months on end – far longer than my five weeks. I did really enjoy India, but the hectic pace of day to day life there was certainly beginning to catch up with me, and any more than a month may have been too long for this nomad.

But for now I'm enjoying the quiet life of the canal, sipping a cup of tea and relaxing before I get back on the tourist trail.


Thursday 12 September 2013

India By Rail

Anyone who's ever thought about travelling through India has seen the images of the overcrowded trains and heard the horror stories about being jammed in for hours on end in a carriage with no air-con and very little comfort.

My experience so far in just about a month in the country is that, while it has its challenges, getting around India has actually been pretty easy. So far.

3AC Sleeper 

As I write this I'm getting ready to take my longest – and final – train journey, from Udaipur to Mumbai. I'll be getting on at 9:30pm tonight and arriving around around 2pm tomorrow afternoon. While it sounds like a long haul, its far from the longest journey possible, and many of the other tourists I've met have done trips which have surpassed 24 hours.

Once you figure out the Indian train system it is actually fairly straight forward. Having said that, trying to organise my first trip, from Calcutta to Varanasi, was anything but easy and took a good half a day going from counter to counter before eventually finding the people who could help me.

With many trains booking up months in advance, the one saving grace for foreign tourists is the tourist quota. Most routes keep a certain number of tickets available for foreigners meaning we can generally get away with buying tickets the day before. But it doesn't always work out so easily. I've had to take advantage of the “Tatkal” booking system – where you attempt to book tickets at 10am the day before a trip with some last minute release tickets, along with thousands of other people – as well as the Wait list, where you pay for your ticket, despite no seats actually being available in anticipation of people cancelling. As crazy as this system seems, so far its worked for me.

The trains are also surprisingly comfortable. With several different classes (including three classes of air conditioned sleeper, and one without AC) all at good prices, you can find something that will suit your budget/comfort line. Being a bit of a “flashpacker” these days as I'm a bit older, I've stuck to the AC classes for most trips.

A relatively empty 2nd class carriage 

I was, however, left taking an “unreserved” journey on one occasion. These are the carriages that are overcrowded, hot, dirty and overall, not really that pleasant. It definitely is an experience though. Having caught the wrong train and gotten off at a stop in the middle of nowhere, I was directed by a good samaritan to jump on a train going to my destination. The only thing was it was already leaving. With my full pack on my back and thongs on my feet I had to take a running start and literally jump up into the carriage, being dragged in by the people hanging out of the door. Once inside I had many eyes on me clearly wondering why I was in that carriage. I was kind of thinking the same thing.

After a couple of stops I was able to get a seat and from there the rest of the trip wasn't so bad. My fellow passengers were really kind, offering me all kinds of food – although the 4 year old using the floor next to me as a toilet kind of ruined my appetite.

In the end I made it to my destination, and for about $1.25 for a 4 hour journey, who can complain?


Far from being a nightmare, I've actually started wishing my own country had a train system as efficient.

So who has had some bad experiences on Indian trains? And I'm I pushing my luck posting this article before my final, and longest, journey? Let me know in the comments! 

Wednesday 4 September 2013

How to Vote: From Delhi

I've been on the road to Rio for just on a month now and I've had an incredible trip already. I've seen one of the Seven Wonders of the World, I've met some of the friendliest people in the world, and I've also found the spiritual homeland of my feet.

Sometimes though, you need to take a break from being a traveller, and get some stuff done. Last week in New Delhi was just such an occasion.

Anyone outside of Australia is probably blissfully unaware that we have a federal election coming up this Saturday, while I'm sure those back home are drowning in it. While in New Delhi I discovered that early postal voting was available to expats and travellers in India at the Australian High Commission. Having missed every national (and state) election since I started travelling in 2005, I decided it was finally time to start having my say again, so I took a few hours out to head down to the High Commission and place my vote.

The thing was, on the walk down I was still unsure as to who I was going to vote for. The two major parties have some pretty deep flaws, while the myriad of small special interest parties didn't excite me in the least.

Indira Gandhi with former Australian PM Gough Whitlam

On the way to the High Commission I came across the memorial and museum dedicated to Indira Gandhi, one of India's most influential political figures of the 20th century. She was Prime Minsiter on several occasions and helped shape India to being the country it is now. She was also somewhat divisive on many issues and was ultimately assassinated before finishing her final term in office in 1984. Her son, Rajiv, followed her as Prime Minister, and unfortunately, suffered the same fate as his mother in 1991.

Listening to some of the rhetoric and campaigning going on back home, you'd think that Australian politics was as heavily divided as it can be in here in India. Depending on who you listen to if 'wrong' party gets up on September 7th, the country is doomed. I don’t buy that.

Australian High Commission in Delhi

The major parties in Australia, like the overwhelming majority of the population are very close to the centre of the political chart. Both parties will act the same way on the majority of issues and neither side will see the country turn into a basket case. Yes, both parties have their faults – not least of which the leader of each – but show me a political party that doesn't.

One thing that is sure to spice up the election is one Mr Julian Assange and his new “Wikileaks” party appearing on the Senate ballot. If he manages to get himself elected it will surely make Australian politics a little more interesting at least.

Indian Parliament

So I turned up to the High Commission and place my vote. I even voted below the line in the Senate, filling out all 97 preferences to make sure the likes of Family First, the Christian Party and One Nation get nothing from my vote.

So to my Australian friends: Go vote Saturday. Vote whatever way you feel but just keep in mind, whomever our government is when we all wake up on Sunday, Australia will continue to be a great place to live. I'm not saying our vote is not important, just that we're lucky enough to live in a country where people aren't killing each other over disagreements in policy.

We are very lucky in Australia and not even Krudd or the Budgie Smuggler can change that. 


I promise I'll get back to some more travel related content next week! This isn't a political blog, I just thought I'd share my thoughts.

Friday 30 August 2013

The 7 Wonders: Taj Mahal

I was sitting on a 14 hour train ride from Varanasi to Agra, on my way to see the Taj Mahal – one of the Seven Wonders of the World. And then it occurred to me: for someone who had spent the best part of the last eight years travelling, I haven't seen many of these so called wonders.

The Taj Mahal

The lists seem to vary greatly, but according to this list, the only one I've “ticked off” is the Roman Colosseum, which I did back in 2005 when I was just getting started.

Who knew it would take so long to see another one of man's greatest creations?

I've seen some great sights in that time: La Alhambra in Spain, The Eiffel Tower in France, Stonehenge in England and the Statue of Liberty in the US, among others.

All were great in their own way, but what makes one of the “Wonders” that much better?

I guess I was about to find out.

Arriving in Agra early in the morning, the first thing to do was to check into the hotel and dump my stuff. Now everyone who has travelled through India will tell you that the best time to see the Taj Mahal is the first thing in morning, which means finding something else to do with your first day in Agra.

Agra Fort

Luckily, Agra has another World Heritage listed monument in town, just a short walk from the Taj, Agra Fort. The Fort is massive and contains 16 separate palaces built over the centuries by successive rulers. And do you know what the most interesting thing about Agra Fort is? Its that every person has the same reaction while they're walking around it and get a glimpse of the Taj Mahal a short distance away. Its clear what everyone is really here to see.

View of the Taj Mahal from Agra Fort

I finish off my first day in Agra doing what dozens of other people do – heading to the park across the river to try and get that perfect photo of the Taj Mahal's reflection and amazing colours during sunset. I settle for a so-so photo and an early night in preparation for an early morning start to see the Taj.

Cheesy landmark photo

After establishing that the “high value” ticket queue was code for “foreigners”, I arrived at dawn to see this wonder of the world and it was.....pretty cool.

My attempt at the artistic shot

Ok, I might have undersold that a bit. It is incredibly beautiful. To see something like this in person, after seeing it so many times on film or pictures, was kind of surreal. It almost didn’t seem real. You had to keep looking at it, and telling yourself that you are seeing this with your own eyes.

More restrained pose inside

Having said all of that, was it any better than any of the monuments I'd seen that didn't make the list? Probably not.

Taj Mahal in all its glory 

I'm looking forward to seeing a few others from the list during this trip – Christ the Redeemer, Machu Picchu and Chichen Itza are all probabilities – but I don't believe these lists are the be all and end all of what is to see.

Like Beauty, it's in the eye of the beholder.


Saturday 24 August 2013

Are Burmese the friendliest people on earth?

“Hey You”

I look around not really sure what to expect. I'd just spent a few days in Bangkok where everyone is trying to get your attention to hopefully get you to part from you money. I was now in Yangon, the capital of Burma (Myanmar) and having just gotten off the plane, wasn't really sure what to expect. So I looked around. Only I didn't see anything.

“Hey You!” This time the voice was louder, but where was it coming from. And then I looked up and saw a construction worker on a nearby building several floors up on some dodgey looking scaffolding waving at me and grinning.

“HELLOOO!”

Local kids on the U Bein Bridge

You get this everywhere you go in Burma. People are genuinely happy to see you. Walking through one of their many sacred pagodas, there is no anger at westerners treating their temples as a tourist attraction. They're just happy to see you there and will more often than not try to speak whatever English they can to you – even if its just “Hello!”

I had a group of school students following me around a supermarket at one point. I could hear them practising a phrase while hiding around the corners, before eventually one of them stepped forward and in his best English asked “How you doin'?”

I'd heard previously that the best part of Burma was the people. I thought all that meant was that the country lacked something in other departments, but that was far from the case. There are many amazing temples and historical sights and plenty of amazing scenery, and I didn't even get a chance to check out the places that are considered to be the top of those lists – Bagan and Inle Lake.

Kandwagyi Palace 


What I did see in Yangon/Rangoon was the beautiful Shwedagon Pagoda, Kandwagyi Palace which resembles a boat on the lake headed by two golden swans, and the former home of General Aung San (below)



In and around Mandalay I was able to see the impressive Mandalay Palace, the U Bein bridge (worlds longest wooden bridge) and the Mahamuni Buddha temple.

 View of Mandalay Palace from the watchtower

And yet it is still the people that make the place what it is.

I was actually fortunate enough to meet some great fellow travellers in both cities as well – always part of the backpacking experience – instant travel companions! One of these, whom I met in Yangon, was actually someone who had lived in the country many years ago and spoke the language. This meant we could negotiate the bus system – which to that point was completely incomprehensible to me. Some of these “buses” were little more than pick up trucks that would cram as many people as possible into, which at times got a little uncomfortable, but for the price of about 10 cents, how can you complain? And any time needed some more directions or advice on a good place to eat, the locals appeared like they could not wait to help, just waiting for us to ask.

A Yangon "Bus"

While in Mandalay, myself and a group of new travel friends hired an excellent local guide to show us around some of the sights outside of the city. One of these was a monastery. Not a famous one, and not a special one, but a regular monastery which we were able to take a look through, and on the invitation of the elder monk there, share lunch with them. The experience was surreal, with everyone eating in complete silence, and certainly not something I thought I would ever have a chance to do. However for them, it was just being polite.

Monks, as well as the other members of the monastery praying before eating lunch - we were invited to join them shortly after this

This kind of politeness is not just among the spiritual leaders. While on a 15 hour train ride from Yangon to Mandalay, I was sharing a sleeping compartment with three men in their 50s and 60s. Any time they would buy or take out some food they would insist I have some and not let me refuse. I was a guest in their country and they wanted to make sure I enjoyed my experience. That feeling was evident everywhere I went in Burma and the feeling was quite overwhelming.

Centuries old temple at Inwa

Burma has had a pretty rough history over the last 150 or so years. In that time they've been ruled by the British, Japanese and their own military with only brief periods of free and fair elections in intertwined. Even now, most of its bountiful natural resources are being taken by outside interests who are leaving little for the locals.

With all of this you could forgive the Burmese people for being cold, stony faced people, but it is the exact opposite. They're warm, welcoming and truly friendly. There is a real innocence about the people there that I hope is not lost as the country opens up more and more to tourism.


Finding a country full of people like the Burmese is one of the biggest reasons why I travel, and the biggest as to why I'll definitely be going back.  

Friday 16 August 2013

Myanmar - Land of Thongs

With my maternal grandfather having been born in Myanmar (Burma) and living there until he got to school age, I always felt a part of me felt a connection to the country. After spending a little over a week in the South East Asian nation recently I've discovered what part that is – my feet.

In Burma, everything seems to be done wearing thongs, or flip flops, sandals, jandals, slides, slippers or whatever it is you call them in your part of the world. I'll admit I went for a bit of an attention grabbing headline, but in Australia we call them thongs.

I've always been a fan of the “less is more” style of a humble set of thongs. Wearing them around back home doesn't raise an eyebrow (unless you're trying to get into a pub, what's with that?), but I've been known to wear them to the corner shop when I lived in Vancouver, Canada in Winter, even with snow on the ground. So when I saw every person around me wearing my favourite kind of footwear, I felt like I was home.

A young construction worker wearing thongs

The simple bits of rubber sole held together by a couple of rubber straps are the footwear of choice for virtually everyone in Burma. Their spiritual leaders, the Buddhist Monks wear them. Guys working on construction sights wear them, and motorbike taxi drivers wear them. I was actually genuinely surprised to not see the police walking around in the ubiquitous double pluggers.

It is easy to see why these are the shoes of choice too. Particularly at this time of year its very hot, very wet and the streets quite dirty. Your feet will get wet. And yet because of the heat, the moment you're out of the water your feet and thongs will dry. Tell me those fancy hiking boots will do the same.

Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon - One of the many places you'll need to take off your shoes

Another reason for the choice of footwear that when you visit any of the many pagodas, temples and other historic sights, you're expected to take off your shoes. As one of my travel companions found out, if you're wearing shoes and socks, this can cause some delays in your sight seeing as there are a lot of temples to see.

Even visiting the Strand Hotel – a fancy landmark popular with expats, diplomats and ambassadors – wearing thongs is considered normal. I'd like to think Australia could learn from this!

Figured it would be a good time to retire the old Havaianas! 


While there is far more to Myanmar than just their choice of footwear – and I'll get into that more in the next blog – it was good to see that I do have something in common with the people for whom my family has some history.