“Hey You”
I look around not
really sure what to expect. I'd just spent a few days in Bangkok
where everyone is trying to get your attention to hopefully get you
to part from you money. I was now in Yangon, the capital of Burma
(Myanmar) and having just gotten off the plane, wasn't really sure
what to expect. So I looked around. Only I didn't see anything.
“Hey You!”
This time the voice was louder, but where was it coming from. And
then I looked up and saw a construction worker on a nearby building
several floors up on some dodgey looking scaffolding waving at me and
grinning.
“HELLOOO!”
Local kids on the U Bein Bridge
You get this
everywhere you go in Burma. People are genuinely happy to see you.
Walking through one of their many sacred pagodas, there is no anger
at westerners treating their temples as a tourist attraction. They're
just happy to see you there and will more often than not try to speak
whatever English they can to you – even if its just “Hello!”
I had a group of
school students following me around a supermarket at one point. I
could hear them practising a phrase while hiding around the corners,
before eventually one of them stepped forward and in his best English
asked “How you doin'?”
I'd heard
previously that the best part of Burma was the people. I thought all
that meant was that the country lacked something in other
departments, but that was far from the case. There are many amazing
temples and historical sights and plenty of amazing scenery, and I
didn't even get a chance to check out the places that are considered
to be the top of those lists – Bagan and Inle Lake.
Kandwagyi Palace
What I did see in
Yangon/Rangoon was the beautiful Shwedagon Pagoda, Kandwagyi Palace
which resembles a boat on the lake headed by two golden swans, and
the former home of General Aung San (below)
In and around
Mandalay I was able to see the impressive Mandalay Palace, the U Bein
bridge (worlds longest wooden bridge) and the Mahamuni Buddha temple.
View of Mandalay Palace from the watchtower
And yet it is
still the people that make the place what it is.
I was actually
fortunate enough to meet some great fellow travellers in both cities
as well – always part of the backpacking experience – instant
travel companions! One of these, whom I met in Yangon, was actually
someone who had lived in the country many years ago and spoke the
language. This meant we could negotiate the bus system – which to
that point was completely incomprehensible to me. Some of these
“buses” were little more than pick up trucks that would cram as
many people as possible into, which at times got a little
uncomfortable, but for the price of about 10 cents, how can you
complain? And any time needed some more directions or advice on a
good place to eat, the locals appeared like they could not wait to
help, just waiting for us to ask.
A Yangon "Bus"
While in Mandalay,
myself and a group of new travel friends hired an excellent local
guide to show us around some of the sights outside of the city. One
of these was a monastery. Not a famous one, and not a special one,
but a regular monastery which we were able to take a look through,
and on the invitation of the elder monk there, share lunch with them.
The experience was surreal, with everyone eating in complete silence,
and certainly not something I thought I would ever have a chance to
do. However for them, it was just being polite.
Monks, as well as the other members of the monastery praying before eating lunch - we were invited to join them shortly after this
This kind of
politeness is not just among the spiritual leaders. While on a 15
hour train ride from Yangon to Mandalay, I was sharing a sleeping
compartment with three men in their 50s and 60s. Any time they would
buy or take out some food they would insist I have some and not let
me refuse. I was a guest in their country and they wanted to make
sure I enjoyed my experience. That feeling was evident everywhere I
went in Burma and the feeling was quite overwhelming.
Centuries old temple at Inwa
Burma has had a
pretty rough history over the last 150 or so years. In that time
they've been ruled by the British, Japanese and their own military
with only brief periods of free and fair elections in intertwined.
Even now, most of its bountiful natural resources are being taken by
outside interests who are leaving little for the locals.
With all of this
you could forgive the Burmese people for being cold, stony faced
people, but it is the exact opposite. They're warm, welcoming and
truly friendly. There is a real innocence about the people there that
I hope is not lost as the country opens up more and more to tourism.
Finding a country
full of people like the Burmese is one of the biggest reasons why I
travel, and the biggest as to why I'll definitely be going back.
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